A semi-local’s guide to a week in Europe’s most beautiful capital

A week in Ljubljana

The Slovene capital, Ljubljana (“Loo-blaah-nuh”), is the best location in Europe for a short city break. Especially so if your the kind of relaxed but inquisitive traveller that loves historic, friendly and culturally fascinating destinations. And while it’s small enough to walk through in an afternoon, it is also the ideal centre location for day trips to the alps, spa towns and beaches. Ljubljana is also one of the world’s greenest capitals and along the river that divides it, feels more like a garden town than a modern commercial centre. Depending upon the season you choose to visit, the atmosphere of the city can vary from warm and Mediterranean to crisp and alpine.

This is not a commercial website. It’s just a way for me to share a few recommendations from more than 50 visits to the city where I spent a third of my childhood. I only include places I’ve personally enjoyed and all the photographs are snaps taken by me whilst I was there. I hope that this site helps you to discover the same feelings of adventure that Ljubljana still gives me on every visit.

The city

Useful information on Ljubljana’s geography, history, language and laws

Travel

Getting to Slovenija, moving around the city and a list of day trip destinations

Food/Drink

Favourite places for relaxing and affordable coffee, drinks and dinner

Culture

A guide to the best locations for art, cinema and live music in the city

An ideal week

If you’re here for a week, I’d recommend using the city as a base and trying to experience the lakes, mountains and the seaside as day trips. All are less than two hours away by car with lots to do on the way.

If this sounds like your kind of trip, get started by learning about the city, planning your travel and finding places to eat, drink and explore in Ljubljana.

Arrive and check in to your hotel or apartment. Take the funicular to Ljubljana castle and orientate yourself from the tower. Walk back down the hill path and grab an espresso at Cafe Čokl. Relax with evening drinks at Pritličje and simple food at Lajbah.

Grab a galette for breakfast at Norma23 before walking through the city to visit the MG+ modern or the national art gallery. For lunchm head back for the fresh chicken Caesar salad at Čaijna Hiša in the old town. Explore the cobbled streets before dinner drinks and dinner.

Take a day trip towards Bled to cool down with a walk along Vintgar Gorge. Make a predictable but essential pit stop for cake by Lake Bled. Drive to Bohinj to swim, relax or hike up to the Savica waterfall. Head back in time for live music at Metelkova or the opera – very different choices!

Time for a mountain day trip with a drive over the 1,300m Vršič pass. Stop at the top to walk a while and get goulash at Tičar Lodge. Return via the river Soča valley stopping to dip your toes into Europe’s cleanest river. Have dinner at Restavracija Julija in the old city.

Rent city bikes for one Euro and explore Tivoli Park. Then eat lunch at the amazing Odprta Kuhna before heading to the Cukrarna contemporary gallery. Cycle on to grab early evening drinks by the river in Špica. Park the bikes and walk back along the river path for pizza at Gostilnica 5-6kg in Trnovo

Having done lakes and mountains, it’s time for an early trip to the Adriatic coast just 90 minutes away. Swim in the sea at Portoroż and spend the afternoon getting lost in the Venetian streets of Piran. Then head back to the city and try a few local gins or IPAs at Daktari.

Wake up late and grab the eggs benedict breakfast at Le Petit Cafe. Walk five minutes down to the Sunday flea market by the river then stop for a flat white at Tozd. See an afternoon movie at Kinodvor then eat Balkan grill at Sarejevo84. for the evening, wander down to Čin Čin to see live jazz at the old tobacco factory.

About me

My name is Marco and I’m half Slovene. I first visited my maternal homeland at just six weeks of age and for the following 15 years, spent up to one third of each year living with my family in the east of Ljubljana. As soon as I was finished with college, I began travelling home on my own each summer and after perhaps 50 visits, I now make three or four trips each year. I run a small cultural communication consultancy and with clients spread across the world, I’m lucky enough to be able to work from anywhere.

My time, life and business is pretty much co-located between Slovenia and the UK today. I’m interested in music, film, art and travel. I like relaxing with good food, drinks and coffee in beautiful, vibrant locations. And after twenty years of travelling around Europe for work, Ljubljana is still my absolute favourite place to do this. I hope that this collection of personal recommendations helps you plan your visit and that you grow to love the city and the country just as much as I do.